Lough Erne isn't just one lake - it's a vast network of waterways, islands, and hidden coves stretching through the heart of County Fermanagh. With over 150 islands scattered across Upper and Lower Lough Erne, this is Ireland's ultimate island-hopping destination, and one of my favorite places to explore by kayak.
I've spent countless days paddling these waters, from calm summer mornings watching herons fish in the shallows to dramatic autumn evenings when storm clouds roll across the lake. This guide shares everything I've learned about exploring Lough Erne's islands, whether you're in a kayak, on a boat tour, or planning a multi-day adventure.
Understanding Lough Erne's Geography
Lough Erne comprises two connected lakes: Upper Lough Erne (southeast) and Lower Lough Erne (northwest), linked by the town of Enniskillen. Despite its name, Upper Lough Erne is actually lower in altitude - the naming refers to positions on the Erne River that flows through them.
Lower Lough Erne is the larger, more open lake, better suited for motorboat cruising and sailing. Most of the major islands and tourist attractions are located here. Upper Lough Erne is more intimate, with narrower channels weaving between dozens of small, reed-fringed islands - paradise for kayakers and wildlife enthusiasts.
The entire lake system extends roughly 50 miles from end to end, offering everything from sheltered paddling spots perfect for beginners to challenging open-water crossings for experienced kayakers.
Devenish Island: The Crown Jewel
No visit to Lough Erne is complete without Devenish Island, home to Ireland's finest examples of early monastic architecture. The island was a major religious center from the 6th to 17th centuries, and remarkably, most structures survive in excellent condition.
What You'll See on Devenish
- The Round Tower - At 82 feet tall with its cap intact, this is one of the most perfect round towers in Ireland. Built around 1100 AD, you can still climb the internal ladder (though it's narrow and steep).
- St. Molaise's Church - A small 12th-century church with beautiful Romanesque details
- Teampull Mór - The "Great Church" with intricate stone carvings
- St. Mary's Priory - 15th-century Augustinian priory ruins
- High Cross - An intricately carved 15th-century cross near the museum
The island is accessible by ferry from Trory Point (April-September, small fee) or you can kayak there from several launch points. Allow 1.5-2 hours minimum to explore properly. The ruins are maintained by Historic Environment Division and free to wander.
Kayaking Lough Erne: Routes and Launch Points
Kayaking offers the most intimate way to explore Lough Erne's islands and shoreline. Here are my top routes for different skill levels:
Beginner Routes
Castle Archdale to Davy's Island (2-3 hours)
Launch from Castle Archdale Country Park and paddle to nearby Davy's Island. The route stays close to shore with minimal exposure to wind. Perfect for first-timers wanting to practice before attempting longer crossings.
Upper Lough Erne from Crom Estate (2-4 hours)
The sheltered channels of Upper Lough Erne around Crom Estate National Trust property offer maze-like paddling between small islands. Excellent for wildlife watching - otters, kingfishers, and herons are common sightings.
Intermediate Routes
Boa Island Circuit (4-5 hours)
Circumnavigate Boa Island (connected to mainland by bridges at both ends). The route includes the fascinating Boa Island Figures - ancient pagan stone carvings in Caldragh Cemetery. Mix of sheltered and exposed paddling.
Share Discovery Village to White Island (3-4 hours)
Paddle to White Island to see its mysterious carved stone figures. This early Christian site features six enigmatic stone carvings displayed in a ruined church. The island is uninhabited and atmospheric.
Advanced Routes
Multi-Day Island Camping Expedition
For experienced paddlers, a 2-3 day trip exploring remote islands with wild camping is unforgettable. Popular routes include Enniskillen to Belleek (northwest) or extended trips around Upper Lough Erne. You'll need proper camping gear, water purification, and wilderness camping skills.
Boat Tours: Leisurely Island Exploration
If paddling isn't your thing, several boat tour companies operate on Lough Erne, offering everything from 90-minute cruises to full-day excursions.
Erne Water Taxi
Operates from Enniskillen and offers customizable trips to various islands. Perfect if you want flexibility to visit specific sites. They'll drop you at an island and pick you up later, giving you time to explore at your own pace.
Lough Erne Cruises
Runs regular scheduled cruises from Enniskillen including to Devenish Island. Commentary covers local history, folklore, and wildlife. Two-hour cruises available or longer options with island stops.
Self-Drive Boat Hire
Several marinas offer day-boat hire (no license required for certain boats). Manor House Marine near Killadeas is one of the best, with well-maintained boats and excellent local knowledge. They'll provide charts and navigation tips.
Other Must-Visit Islands
White Island
Accessible by summer ferry from Castle Archdale Marina (runs June-August). The seven mysterious stone figures here, dating from early Christian times, show a bizarre mix of Christian and pagan imagery. Theories about their meaning vary wildly - that's part of their fascination.
Boa Island
Unique because it's connected to the mainland by bridges, making it accessible by car. Don't miss Caldragh Cemetery with its two-faced Janus figure, possibly Ireland's oldest stone carving. The island also has great walking trails and several quiet beaches.
Inishmacsaint
A peaceful island with atmospheric monastic ruins. Less visited than Devenish but equally atmospheric. Accessible by boat or kayak - there's a small jetty on the eastern shore.
Enniskillen: Your Lough Erne Base
The market town of Enniskillen sits on an island between Upper and Lower Lough Erne, making it the perfect base for exploring the lakes. The town offers excellent accommodation, restaurants, and cultural attractions.
Don't miss in Enniskillen:
- Enniskillen Castle - Housing two museums covering local history and the famous Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers
- Forthill Park - Climb to the Cole Monument for panoramic views over both lakes
- The Buttermarket - Craft shops and cafés in restored 19th-century market
- Blake's of the Hollow - Traditional Victorian pub, unchanged since 1887, perfect pint of Guinness
For accommodation options in Enniskillen and throughout Fermanagh, see our County Fermanagh accommodation guide.
Where to Eat in Fermanagh
Fermanagh's food scene punches well above its weight. Lough Erne's fish (pike, perch, roach) feature on menus, alongside Fermanagh beef and locally grown produce.
Top picks:
- The Jolly Sandwich Bar (Enniskillen) - Don't let the name fool you, this serves excellent fresh food
- Dollakis (Enniskillen) - Fine dining showcasing local ingredients
- The Horseshoe & Saddlers (Enniskillen) - Great pub food and traditional music sessions
- Lough Erne Resort - Upscale dining with lake views, perfect for special occasions
Check our Fermanagh restaurants guide for more options.
Wildlife Watching on Lough Erne
The lakes and surrounding wetlands support incredible biodiversity. In my years paddling here, I've seen:
- Otters - Most active at dawn and dusk, particularly in sheltered bays
- Kingfishers - Flash of electric blue along wooded shorelines
- Herons and egrets - Fishing in the shallows
- Red deer - Swimming between islands (yes, really!)
- Great crested grebes - Diving birds common across both lakes
- Whooper swans - Winter visitors from Iceland (October-March)
The reed beds of Upper Lough Erne are particularly rich in wildlife. Paddle quietly in early morning or evening for best sightings.
Best Time to Visit Lough Erne
May-September: Peak season with warmest weather, all boat services operating, and long daylight hours. Can be busy on summer weekends.
April & October: Quieter, good weather often holds, fewer midges. Some boat services reduced or ended for season.
November-March: Quiet and atmospheric but cold. Winter wildlife watching excellent. Limited boat tours. Only for experienced kayakers with proper cold-water gear.
Practical Planning Tips
- Allow multiple days - Lough Erne deserves at least 2-3 days to properly explore
- Book accommodation ahead in peak summer months
- Bring layers - Weather can change quickly on the lakes
- Waterproof bags essential if kayaking
- Download offline maps - Phone signal can be patchy on water
- Check forecasts - Wind is the main concern for water activities
Combining Lough Erne with Other Attractions
Fermanagh has more to offer beyond the lakes. Combine your island hopping with:
- Marble Arch Caves - Spectacular underground cave system (book ahead)
- Cuilcagh Boardwalk - The "Stairway to Heaven" mountain walk with wooden boardwalk
- Florence Court - National Trust Georgian mansion and estate
- Belleek Pottery - Famous pottery factory with tours and shop
For more Fermanagh activities and county-wide planning, visit our travel guides section.
Final Thoughts
Lough Erne offers something genuinely different from the rest of Northern Ireland. Where the coast has dramatic cliffs and the mountains have challenging hikes, Fermanagh gives you peaceful water, hidden islands, and ancient mysteries. It's a place that rewards slow travel and careful exploration.
Whether you're paddling quietly past reed beds at sunrise, cruising between islands on a sunny afternoon, or simply sitting in a pub in Enniskillen planning tomorrow's adventure, the lakes cast a spell that brings people back year after year. I've been exploring these waters for over 15 years, and I still find new coves, new islands, new reasons to return.
Pack your sense of adventure, allow plenty of time, and let Lough Erne work its magic.