My city has two names, a complicated history, and some of the warmest people you'll ever meet. Derry-Londonderry is Ireland's only completely intact walled city, a vibrant cultural hub that has transformed from conflict to creativity, and a place where history lives in every cobblestone and street corner.
I was born and raised in Derry, studied its history at university, and worked as a museum curator here for five years. I've walked these walls thousands of times, watched the city transform over decades, and I still discover new stories in familiar places. This guide shares my hometown with you - the essential sights, the hidden gems, and the understanding you need to truly appreciate this remarkable city.
Understanding the Dual Name
Let's address this immediately: the city's official name is Derry-Londonderry, though you'll hear it called both Derry and Londonderry depending on who's speaking. The original Irish name was Doire, meaning "oak grove." When English colonists arrived in 1613, they added "London" as a prefix, honoring the London guilds who financed the plantation.
Today, most locals simply call it Derry, but you'll see Londonderry on official documents, road signs, and the city's airport. The dual name reflects our complex history - we've learned to live with ambiguity here. Visitors shouldn't worry about causing offense - use whichever name feels natural, and people will understand.
What matters more than the name is understanding what makes this city special: resilient, creative, historically significant, and genuinely welcoming to visitors.
Walking the Historic Walls
Derry's city walls are the finest example of a fortified walled city in Ireland and Britain. Built between 1613 and 1619, they remain completely intact - you can walk the entire circuit of approximately one mile, something you can't do at any other Irish or British walled city.
The Complete Circuit
The wall walk stands about 26 feet high and varies from 12 to 35 feet thick. Seven gates pierce the walls (four original, three added later), and the original cannon still stand guard at key bastions. Allow 45-60 minutes to walk the complete circuit, longer if you stop frequently to read plaques and admire views.
I recommend starting at Magazine Gate near the Guildhall and walking clockwise. This route takes you past:
- Roaring Meg - An 18-pounder cannon from the 1689 Siege, with spectacular views over the Bogside
- Royal Bastion - Best views of the Foyle and Peace Bridge
- Bishop's Gate - The most ornate of the gates, rebuilt in 1789 in triumphal arch style
- St. Columb's Cathedral - Visible from the walls, Ireland's first post-Reformation cathedral
- Verbal Arts Centre - Contemporary arts venue in restored historic buildings
The walls witnessed the 105-day Siege of Derry in 1688-89, one of the most significant events in Irish and British history. Information panels along the route explain the siege and the walls' later history through the Troubles and into the peace process.
The Guildhall: Victorian Splendor
The Guildhall is Derry's most photographed building - a magnificent neo-Gothic structure with a distinctive clock tower rising above the Peace Bridge end of the walled city. Originally built in 1890, it was damaged by fire and bombs multiple times and lovingly restored.
The interior is breathtaking. The main hall features stunning stained glass windows, among the finest in Ireland, depicting scenes from the city's history - from Columba founding his monastery in 546 AD through the plantation, the siege, the industrial era, and into modern times.
Free guided tours run regularly (check current schedule), or explore independently. The Guildhall hosts concerts, exhibitions, and cultural events throughout the year. Don't miss the Peace Window in the main entrance hall, installed in 2018 to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Good Friday Agreement.
Location: Guildhall Square, just outside the walls near Magazine Gate. Free admission. Open daily (hours vary). Allow 30-45 minutes for self-guided visit, 60-90 minutes for guided tour.
St. Columb's Cathedral
Built between 1628 and 1633, St. Columb's is the first Protestant cathedral built in the British Isles after the Reformation and the mother church of the Church of Ireland Diocese of Derry and Raphoe. It's named after St. Columba (Colm Cille), who founded a monastery on this site in 546 AD.
The cathedral survived the 1689 Siege - cannonballs are still embedded in the walls, and relics from the siege are displayed in the chapter house, including the original locks and keys from the four main gates when the city shut them against King James's army.
Inside, the cathedral's dark wood, historic memorials, and stained glass create an atmosphere of quiet contemplation. The chapter house museum contains fascinating artifacts including siege maps, historic documents, and medieval stonework.
Climb the tower for panoramic views across the city (additional small fee, narrow spiral stairs). The cathedral sits within the walls on a commanding position - you can see why Columba chose this spot nearly 1,500 years ago.
The Tower Museum
For understanding Derry's complex history, the Tower Museum is essential. Housed in a modern building designed to echo medieval tower houses, it contains two permanent exhibitions: "Story of Derry" and "An Armada Shipwreck."
The "Story of Derry" exhibition walks chronologically through the city's history from St. Columba's monastery through the plantation, the siege, Victorian industrialization, the Troubles, and into the peace process. It's comprehensive, balanced, and uses multimedia effectively to bring history alive.
"An Armada Shipwreck" tells the story of La Trinidad Valencera, a Spanish Armada ship that sank off Donegal in 1588. The salvaged artifacts and their stories are fascinating.
As someone who worked in museum curation, I can tell you the Tower Museum is excellently done - informative without being overwhelming, honest about difficult history, and genuinely engaging. Allow 90 minutes minimum, longer if you're a history enthusiast.
Location: Union Hall Place, just inside the walls near Shipquay Gate. Admission fee (concessions available). Usually open 10am-5pm but check current hours. Audio guides included.
The Bogside Murals and Museum of Free Derry
The Bogside neighborhood, just outside the western walls, became world-famous during the Troubles. The area's murals have become iconic images of the conflict - powerful, political, and artistically impressive.
The People's Gallery
A series of twelve murals painted on gable walls throughout the Bogside by the Bogside Artists (three local men: Tom Kelly, William Kelly, and Kevin Hasson). The murals depict key moments from the civil rights movement and the Troubles:
- Bloody Sunday Memorial - The most photographed, showing civil rights marcher Ivan Cooper
- The Death of Innocence - Commemorating young people killed during the Troubles
- Civil Rights - Depicting the 1968 civil rights march
- Petrol Bomber - Showing a gas-masked youth with petrol bomb
- The Saturday Matinee - Children playing during conflict
You can walk the murals independently (free interpretive panels at each) or join a guided tour. I strongly recommend the guided tour - local guides provide context and personal stories that transform the murals from images into lived history.
Museum of Free Derry
This small but powerful museum documents the civil rights era and Bloody Sunday (January 30, 1972, when British paratroopers shot 26 unarmed civilians, killing 14). The museum presents artifacts, photographs, testimonies, and video footage with sensitivity and historical rigor.
It's located in the original location of Free Derry Corner, where the famous "You Are Now Entering Free Derry" gable-end slogan still stands. The museum is run by relatives of Bloody Sunday victims and civil rights activists - their personal connection to these events adds profound authenticity.
This isn't easy history, and the museum doesn't shy from difficult truths. But understanding this period is essential to understanding modern Derry and Northern Ireland's journey to peace.
Location: 55 Glenfada Park, Bogside. Admission fee. Allow 60-90 minutes. Combined tickets available with guided mural tours.
Peace Bridge and Ebrington Square
The Peace Bridge, opened in 2011, is both functional infrastructure and powerful symbol. This elegant S-curved pedestrian and cycle bridge spans the River Foyle, connecting the walled city to the Waterside and the redeveloped Ebrington Square.
Walking the bridge at sunset is magical - the curved design means views constantly change, and the city walls, Guildhall, and cathedral create a beautiful skyline. The bridge represents Derry's transformation from divided city to connected community.
Ebrington Square
The former military barracks (evacuated by the British Army in 2003) has been transformed into a massive public square and cultural space. It hosts concerts, festivals, markets, and events throughout the year, including stages during the Foyle Maritime Festival and Halloween celebrations.
The Walled City Brewery opened here in 2015, offering craft beer brewed on-site with views across the Foyle. It's become a popular spot for locals and visitors alike - try their Boom Boom pale ale or St. Columb's Cream Ale.
The square also features cafés, walking trails along the riverbank, and information panels about the site's military history. From barracks to community gathering place - it's Derry's peace process made physical.
Derry's Food Scene
Derry punches well above its weight for food quality. The city's restaurant scene has exploded over the past decade, mixing traditional Irish hospitality with international influences and local ingredients.
Best Restaurants
Pyke 'N' Pommes - My personal favorite. Creative Irish-French fusion using Donegal and Derry ingredients. The lamb is exceptional. Shipquay Street inside the walls. Book ahead - it's small and popular.
Cedar - Lebanese restaurant on Strand Road. Outstanding mezze, generous portions, warm atmosphere. Perfect for groups wanting to share dishes.
Primrose - Upscale dining on Carlisle Road with seasonal tasting menus. Chef Tomas Kearney worked in Michelin-starred kitchens before returning home. Worth the splurge.
Browns Bonds Hill - Modern bistro in a beautifully restored Georgian building. Great Sunday roasts, excellent wine list, lovely courtyard for summer dining.
The Sooty Olive - Contemporary Irish cuisine with stunning views across the Foyle. Located Spencer Road, Waterside. Try their Donegal catch of the day.
Cafés and Casual Eats
The Sandwich Company - Waterloo Street. Don't let the simple name fool you - these are Derry's best sandwiches, made fresh with quality ingredients. Always busy with locals.
Fitzroy's - Magazine Street within the walls. Excellent coffee, homemade cakes, full Irish breakfasts. Popular with local artists and writers.
Mandarin Palace - Derry's Chinese community dates back generations, and this restaurant serves authentic Cantonese food. Clarendon Street, been here 30+ years.
For more dining options across County Londonderry, check our comprehensive restaurant guides.
Pubs and Nightlife
Derry has fantastic traditional pubs and a lively nightlife scene, especially on weekends. The city has a young population (thanks to Ulster University's Magee campus) keeping the nightlife vibrant.
Traditional Pubs
Peadar O'Donnell's - Waterloo Street. The most authentic traditional music pub in Derry. Live sessions almost nightly, local musicians, tourists and locals mixing freely. Gets packed - arrive early for seats.
The Gweedore Bar - Next door to Peadar's, owned by the same family. Upstairs bar with live music, strong Gaelic atmosphere, everyone welcome.
Sandino's - Water Street, named after the Nicaraguan revolutionary. Murals on the walls, politically engaged atmosphere, excellent Guinness, live music weekends.
Modern Bars
Walled City Brewery - Ebrington Square, mentioned earlier. Craft beer brewed on-site, riverside location, modern vibe.
Badgers Bar & Townhouse - Boutique hotel bar on Orchard Street. Craft cocktails, gin selection, stylish setting.
The Bentley Bar - John Street. Live music venue and bar, hosts local and touring bands, lively weekend crowds.
Derry's Halloween celebration is supposedly the biggest in Europe - if you're here late October, expect non-stop parties, street theatre, parades, and fireworks. Book accommodation months in advance for Halloween week.
Shopping in Derry
The walled city's main shopping streets are Shipquay Street, Ferryquay Street, and The Diamond (the central square). You'll find high street chains alongside independent boutiques, craft shops, and bookstores.
Independent Shops Worth Visiting
Donegal Shop - The Diamond. Traditional Irish crafts, Donegal tweed, Aran sweaters, pottery, jewelry. Quality Irish-made goods, knowledgeable staff.
Bookworm - Bishop Street. Independent bookshop specializing in Irish literature, history, and local authors. Lovely place to browse.
Derry Craft Village - Shipquay Street. Purpose-built complex of craft workshops and shops around a courtyard. Watch craftspeople working - weavers, jewelers, ceramicists. Café in the center.
Cool Discs - Foyle Street. Vinyl records, CDs, music memorabilia. Derry has a strong musical heritage (The Undertones, Nadine Coyle), and this shop celebrates it.
The monthly Walled City Market (first Saturday) brings food producers, craftspeople, and vintage sellers to Guildhall Square and Magazine Street. Worth timing your visit to coincide if possible.
Practical Information
Getting to Derry
By Air: City of Derry Airport (7 miles from city center) has limited flights, mainly to UK destinations. Belfast International (60 miles) and Belfast City (70 miles) offer more connections with bus/car hire to Derry.
By Car: 75 miles from Belfast (90 minutes via A6/M22), 45 miles from Donegal Town (1 hour via N15/A38). Parking available at Foyleside Shopping Centre car park (pay), or free parking at Ebrington Square and Sainsbury's (validate in store).
By Bus: Translink Goldline service 212 from Belfast (approximately 90 minutes). Bus Éireann services from Republic of Ireland including Galway, Sligo, and Dublin.
By Train: Regular trains from Belfast (approximately 2 hours 15 minutes) terminate at Waterside Station across the river - free Rail Link bus brings passengers to city center.
Where to Stay
Derry offers accommodation from budget hostels to boutique hotels. Book ahead for summer weekends, Halloween week, and St. Patrick's Day.
Within the Walls: Bishop's Gate Hotel (boutique luxury), City Hotel (mid-range), Maldron Hotel (modern chain).
Near the Walls: Everglades Hotel (business hotel with leisure center), Tower Hotel (budget-friendly), Da Vinci's Hotel (stylish, good restaurant).
Budget: Derry City Independent Hostel (excellent budget option, Magazine Street), Paddy's Palace Hostel (social atmosphere).
See our full County Londonderry accommodation guide for more options including B&Bs and rural stays outside the city.
Best Time to Visit
Summer (June-August): Warmest weather, longest days, most festivals and events. Busiest and most expensive.
Spring/Autumn (April-May, September-October): Good weather often holds, fewer crowds, better accommodation availability. Halloween (late October) is spectacularly busy.
Winter (November-March): Quieter, colder, shorter days. Christmas markets in December bring festive atmosphere. Some attractions have reduced hours.
Day Trips from Derry
Derry makes an excellent base for exploring the northwest. These destinations are within easy reach:
Grianan of Aileach
This spectacular stone ringfort sits atop a 800-foot hill with 360-degree views across three counties and Lough Swilly. Dating from around 1700 BC with the current stone fort built circa 7th century AD, it was the royal seat of the ancient Kingdom of Aileach.
The restoration in the 1870s makes it one of Ireland's most complete ancient monuments. The 15-mile drive from Derry crosses into County Donegal - views from the hilltop are spectacular on clear days.
Distance: 15 miles south, 25 minutes drive. Free access, always open. Allow 45-60 minutes including the climb and views.
Inishowen Peninsula
Ireland's northernmost peninsula offers dramatic coastal scenery, quiet beaches, historic sites, and Malin Head - Ireland's most northerly point featured in Star Wars. The full peninsula loop is about 100 miles - perfect for a full-day drive.
Highlights include:
- Malin Head - Spectacular cliffs, WWII lookout tower, Ireland's most northerly point
- Doagh Famine Village - Living history museum depicting 19th-century life
- Fort Dunree - Coastal defense fort with military museum and café
- Inch Island - Tidal causeway, bird-watching, quiet beaches
Allow a full day for the Inishowen loop. Pack lunch or plan cafe stops - services are limited in remote areas. The peninsula crosses into County Donegal (Republic of Ireland) - check your car insurance covers cross-border travel if hiring.
Giant's Causeway and North Coast
Derry provides an alternative base for exploring the famous Causeway Coast. Giant's Causeway is 45 miles east (60 minutes), less crowded when approached from the west. Combine with Dunluce Castle, Bushmills Distillery, and coastal scenery.
Our travel guides include detailed itineraries for Causeway Coast trips.
Final Thoughts: Why Derry Matters
I've traveled extensively, lived in other cities, but I always come back to Derry. There's something special about this place - a combination of genuine warmth, creative energy, historical depth, and unpretentious authenticity that's increasingly rare.
We went through hell during the Troubles. We lost too many people, endured too much violence, carried too much trauma. But instead of letting conflict define us forever, Derry has chosen creativity, culture, and welcome. We were UK City of Culture in 2013, we host world-class festivals, our artists and musicians punch well above our weight internationally.
The walls that once divided now unite - people walk them together, tourists and locals, all backgrounds. The Bogside murals that documented conflict now educate for peace. The Peace Bridge connects what was separated. These aren't just tourist attractions - they represent real transformation, imperfect but genuine.
Visit Derry for the complete walls, the Guildhall's stained glass, the Bogside's powerful murals, the excellent restaurants, the traditional music, the riverside walks. But also visit to see what's possible - how a city can face terrible history honestly, build peace patiently, and create a future worth sharing.
You'll be welcomed here. The phrase "Derry girls and boys" refers to our famous hospitality - we're proud of our city and happy to share it. Ask locals for recommendations. Strike up conversations in pubs. Walk the walls at different times of day. Give yourself time to understand the layers of history and the reality of today's vibrant, forward-looking city.
As we say in Derry: CĂ©ad MĂle Fáilte - a hundred thousand welcomes.